Saturday, July 08, 2006

Lafourche Parish, Louisiana

Schedules here are more like suggestions. Snapping turtles plod across the road, alligators swim lazily in the swamps, and 3 o'clock swamp tours begin at 3:45. In Kraemer the drawbridge operator regularly falls asleep in the control house, and if you're on the water, you may have to call your friend next door to wake him up.

The pile of useless alligator skulls has been accumulating, under a corrugated tin roof, for 20 years. Once there was a market for the heads, as tourist souvenirs in New Orleans, in Mississippi, in Florida, but now only the meat is salable. So the heads sit, unmoved, even by Hurricane Katrina, destroyer of New Orleans.

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